Disassembly – Mitakon Zhongyi 35mm F0.95 Mark II [Part 2]

It took some time to discover how to disassemble this lens from the front area and get access to the aperture. I think it’s most fragile area in the lens and may need repair, so good news is that getting there is relatively simple and doesn’t require optical calibration after assembly.


First step is to unscrew the front plate with lens lettering. I’m using thick rubber ring to do that.


You may want to unscrew the black fastener ring from the first lens like I did, but it’s not required, so skip this step.

NOTE: you can see the deep and rough paint scratch in the left border area. It’s intentional factory mark of the front lens group radial position. When assembling lens back remember to put it in the same way so two scratched marks fit.


Remove three black screws and front barrel can be taken off, unveiling access to the front lens group.


At this stage I also unscrewed large black bolt from the aperture ring and took it off. When assembling it back, that long bolt should fit back to aperture control area, which you will see on the very next shot.


Gently pull out front lens group (now you can clean it if required. You will see the aperture assembly, and the controlling area for the unscrewed long bolt is on the right side here.


Looks like all glass is secured with glue there.


I’ve also removed aperture fastener to have closer look at the blades (and clean them if required).


That was quite simple disassembly. The parts inside are not super fine machined, but they look durable and do their job great. I generally like how the lens is constructed and feel happy I can easily repair or clean it if required.


  1. Hi again!!! I posted a comment on your review of this lens. I just wanted to say I LOVE YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!! I knew why the glass sound was happening. The metal ring with the text on it on the front wasn’t well tightened. I love you a lot. Truly. Thank you so much. You don’t know how much of a burden this was for me.

    Liked by 1 person

    • You are very welcome! : ) It’s always great to see that shared experience is helpful to someone. Mitakon 35mm F0.95 II is my favorite lens for 3 years and I’ll be happy to answer questions if appear.

      Liked by 2 people

      • I agree, quite honestly this lens is so unique to the extent that i switched from Olympus to Fujifilm especially for it. This might sound a bit extreme but i think this lens is most suitable for my personal interests.


  2. Just received my 0.95 MK II, I’m surprise to find out that the focus ring doesn’t have the same resistance thoughout all the focal distance. Bellow 0,50m focus ring turns with a bit more resistance. Just curious to know if this is a normal behaviour in this lens.

    How hard it is to relub the helicoid of this lens?

    I can’t return it =/


  3. Hi Yuko! I hope you still remember me and I hope you are doing well 🙂

    I have a question please.. I have two Mitakon 35mm lenses and both of them have a common property.. the front barrel rotates slightly to the left and to the right independent of the rest of the lens body.

    I wonder if you have the same issue? Does this mean that the 3 front barrel screws needs tightening? Or is it something normal in all Mitakons?

    I would be extremely grateful if you check your Mitakon for me and see if the front barrel rotates in yours too (very small and slight rotation)

    Thank you!


    • Yes I remember you : ) What you describing is most likely a loose helicoid. There is by design some extra space between helicoid cylinders thread, to add thin layer of grease. I’ve read somewhere that aluminum-to-aluminum threads can wear off quick and easy over time, so expensive lens manufacturers are using one cylinder made out of brass, and also anodizing aluminum thread surface.
      Mitakon mark II is one of first Chinese ultra-fast lens, so they used aluminum only there, probably to keep the price affordable.
      I was experimenting with grease amount, and also calibrated width of helicoid guiding pins to minimize that radial play in all Mitakon samples I had.
      I don’t think that front barrel ring is loose – that three bolts holding it are secured quite good on factory, and you say it’s on both samples. So I think it’s a helicoid play.

      Liked by 1 person

      • Hi Yuko! Thank you so much for your detailed reply 🙂

        I disassembled the upper ring that covers the 3 screws yesterday, and I discovered that one screw was loose. Once I fastened the screws, the rotation stopped.

        However, when I was closing everything back, a glass B+W filter broke on top of the lens and it dropped shattered glass particles all over the Mitakon front element, I hated my life at that moment. It was a terrible moment that I hope no one will ever go through.

        I took my air blower and blew away all the glass particles as much as I can, then I used soft filter-cleaning B+W cloth to clean the front element.

        I wish if Zhongyi did a better job than this, they costed me my mental wellbeing yesterday and a lot of things by such a weak “3 screws” design.

        I’m sorry about the rant. But yeah, the 3 screws were the issue :/ I’m sad to say this.

        Thank you once again!


        • It’s good to know that I was wrong, and problem was easier than adjusting helicoid grease and guiders.
          Having 3 screws on front barrel is quite typical design to many other lens, e.g. Voigltander and Carl Zeiss often securing front barrel with 3 screws only, but they often add a securing glue to that screws. That is interesting case of breaking B+W filter glass, do you know if it happened because of pressure in a filter frame, or Mitakon front element touched the filter glass in the center? I’m surprised if it is a second case, because my Mitakon samples had front element slightly lower than the edge of the nameplate ring surrounding it. Perhaps there is some variation of how thin is the front nameplate in different samples.
          Yeah I agree, removing broken filter is quite stressful. Once I was doing that for Canon F1.2 lens (50mm or 85mm, don’t remember). The filter thread was bent and non-removable, so had to extract glass pieces first, then cover front glass with thick leather and cut the filter frame out of the front. Fortunately no glass surface damage.

          Liked by 1 person

          • I’m glad you managed to clean your lens with no issues!

            As for how it broke, this is a long story, I don’t think I can explain in words but let me try 🙂

            I bought a Hoage square lens screw-on lens hood for my Mitakon so that it has a vintage feel to it. The lens hood is really cool but has one drawback, you cannot attach a filter on top of it, it has to go below it. The problem is that the filter looks too ugly when it is between the lens and the hood, so I decided to take the filter glass out of the filter ring, then sand the filter to reduce its diameter, then insert it between the lens and the filter on top of the name plate without the filter ring.

            When the hood is screwed on the lens, it pushes against the filter glass to keep it tight in place. Of course now the hood doesn’t screw all the way down because the filter glass takes up some space, however, it worked very well and looked amazing!

            Yesterday, when I noticed the front barrel rotation issue, I had to disassemble all of that. When I reassembled, the front barrel was a little tight for the filter glass to get it (I guess it needed slightly more sanding to reduce its diameter more). So, I tried to apply some pressure while rotating it to get it in, but… it was shattered.. and my misery started.

            That’s why I was bothered, because if the lens didn’t have the front barrel rotation issue, I wouldn’t need to disassemble anything, and everything would remain tight in place with no issue.

            By the way, I added some DEVCON glue on the 3 front barrel screws so that they don’t loosen again, would have been better if Zhongyi did though.


            • Please note that I sanded a 58mm filter, I bought a separate filter for the process because the 55mm filter glass was too small to fit.


  4. Thanks for the tutorial! I have the EF model, which is somewhat different to yours. Basically, I was able to remove the complete front lens element with these instructions.
    (Unfortunately, after the first use this complet Lens, I has a giant piece of dust on the glass behind the aperture.) Thanks to the simple construction, I was able to remove this myself!

    Liked by 1 person

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